Train trip to Nagpur

People sitting where they can or sleeping on the ground in the train.


This has been one of the worst trips in my life. It's currently the celebration of Diwali, all over India. It could be compared to Christmas : families gather, people make gifts... So what I did was the equivalent to take a train ticket without reservation (all trains are full) the 23nd of December. The trip between Aurangabad and Nagpur lasts for more than 15 hours. Until my first stop, Manmad, it's ok. Then, I wait my connection for 4 hours. When the train stops, I don't know where to go, so I get in the first coach I see. Actually, it's a first class coach. I stay in this space between two coaches where people get in and off the train and go to the toilets. We are about 15 standing, almost stepping one on the other's feet. A couple is with his baby, who's crying and shouting as loud as he can. I close my eyes and I breathe slower...

After less than one hour, about half of the people standing with me get off. After two hours, I have enough space to sit on the (dirty) floor and try to have a nap, head on my backpack. After some time, the controler wakes me up.
_Can I see your ticket ?
_Sure
_You don't have a first class ticket. What are you doing here ?
_I dont' know... I don't even know where I'm supposed to be.
_This is a first class coach. I don't allow you to stay here.
_But why ? I'm not in a first class space, I'm not even in a second class space, I'm on the floor in front of the toilets !
_You don't have a first class ticket ! On the next stop, you'll get in a second class coach !
I let him go. The next stop comes. I don't get off. I decide to have a talk with him again. I let my pack and start looking for him. I find him two coaches farther.
_I told you to get off the coach !
_I don't understand why I can't stay in the corridor.
_Because you don't have a first class ticket !
_Ok. So give me a first class ticket.
_I can't
_Why ? I have some money. I can pay. Give me a first class ticket.
_It's impossible. There is no free seat in first class.
_I know. I don't want a first class seat, I only want to stay in the corridor in front of the toilets. I'm eady to pay the fare of a first class ticket.
_It's impossible. There is no free seat in first class.

I could have tried to offer him a backshish, but I'm not used to that and not sure it's good thing to use corruption, even if the situation is special. Since I don't really know the powers of that controller and that I read on the walls of the train that having problems with the controler can lead to an up to 1000 rupees fine, and/or 6 months in jail !!! So I don't take risks. I get off the coach, and in a second class coach. Then I understand that this rule applies to all other passengers. It's a privilege for first class travellers not to have a thousand people staying in the corridor leading to the toilets. In the second class roach, it is impossible to sit. Too many people. I don't even dare to hope I'll manage to have a nap. It's about midnight, and I still have 6 hours of trip to go.